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Vinepair: The 30 Best Rums for 2024

Best of, La Maison & Velier, PM Spirits, Rhum, Rum, Vinepair, Privateer, La Maison Velier, Isautier, Hampden, Beenleigh, Papalin, ClarinNicolas Palazzi

As much as any other spirit, it’s safe to say there’s a style of rum for everyone. Nations across the globe have made it for centuries, with regions and producers offering different interpretations via distinct base ingredients — fresh cane juice, cane syrup, and molasses — as well as varied fermentation and distillation techniques.

Expressions arrive unaged and uncut; matured but with color later stripped away; or following decades in casks old and new. Some bottles are specifically produced for cocktails; others, owing to the price tags that accompany them, demand to be sipped, whether neat, on the rocks, or proofed down to the drinker’s preference. Then there are flavored or spiced releases, which accounted for over 50 percent of the rum sold in the U.S. in 2023.

With all due respect to the fictitious sailors that typically adorn such bottles, we did not consider flavored selections for our annual roundup of the best rums to drink right now. But we did dive deep into the diverse range of examples listed prior, tasting more than 120 bottles from over 20 nations across the globe.

Those samples were sent to VinePair (free of charge) by producers, importers, distributors, and PR firms. We tasted each one non-blind because we recognize that price plays one of the most important roles when you’re shopping at the liquor store or online, and should therefore be considered when evaluating a product.

The final list does not represent the 30 highest-scoring rums from the tasting, and instead aims to showcase the best offerings at every price point and across every interpretation of the category. We’re confident that the final selection offers a solid option for every occasion, budget, and palate. After all, there’s a style of rum for everyone.

The Best Rums Under $50

Transcontinental Rum Line High Seas

As the saying goes, “what one rum can’t do, three rums can.” Sure, you can craft your own blends, but why bother when the fine folks behind Transcontinental Rum have done it for you with this excellent mix of Panamanian, Jamaican, and Martinique distillates? Expressive and brimming with character, its savory, vegetal, slightly sweet profile offers a solid foundation for world-class cocktails.

The Best Rums Under $100

The Spirit of Haiti Clairin Vaval

Bottled at a precise 53.5 percent ABV, this Clairin is produced by Distillerie Arawaks, owned and operated by Fritz Vaval, whose family has been in the farm distillery business for close to 80 years. Fermented using ambient yeasts and distilled on a proprietary still, the nose of this spirit juxtaposes papaya and mango with salty umami aromas. The palate commits to more fruity and vegetal notes, with an enjoyably abrasive finish that speaks to the hands-on, traditional practices that led to its creation.

Privateer True American Bottled In Bond Rum

Magical things are happening in the rum realm up in Massachusetts, specifically at the premises of Ipswich-based Privateer Rum. Fusing American traditions with Caribbean-style spirits, this molasses-based bottled-in-bond release might seem initially shy on the nose, but that’s only a reflection of its refined, nuanced character. Where aromas of molasses, mocha, and caramel arrive softly, they explode on the palate, landing with a rich, borderline syrupy mouthfeel. Ideal for bourbon drinkers, this is a bona fide sipper.

Papalin 7 Years Old

A blend of two Jamaican pot still rums, this release features spirits distilled and aged at Worthy Park and Hampden Estate. The nose reveals classic Jamaican funk alongside hints of underripe stone fruit and grassy notes. The palate shifts to savory, umami character, with a Band-Aid note emerging on the finish that evokes a touch of peated Scotch. A complex rum that makes for a great sipping experience with or without ice, at 46 percent ABV, most drinkers won’t find the switch in temperature and dilution necessary, but it certainly isn’t unwelcome on a warm summer’s day.

Beenleigh Artisan Distillers 2013 Single Blended Rum

Beenleigh, Australia’s oldest operating distillery, was founded in 1884 in the sugar cane-rich northeastern state of Queensland. Those 140 or so years of experience have translated to a fruity and energetic spirit here, with oak and vanilla aromas raising the curtain, followed by more pronounced notes of tropical fruit and melon. At 10 years old, the palate is similarly lively, with ginger syrup and pomegranate molasses leading the charge. This is an elegant but easygoing sipper.

Hampden Estate HLCF Classic

A flagship expression from one of Jamaica’s most renowned producers, HLCF is shorthand for “Hampden Light Continental Flavoured.” Production features ambient yeasts, extended fermentation periods, 100 percent pot still distillation, and four years aging in tropical climates, which the brand notes is “equivalent” to 11 years in Europe. What does that translate to? Plenty of funk on the nose with added aromas of papaya, tart/savory tropical fruits, and molasses. A classically Jamaican profile on the palate, this rum certainly sips above its modest age statement.

The Best Rums Over $100

Isautier Traditional Rum 16 Year

Another stellar inclusion from the small island of Réunion, this rum was put into barrel in May 2006 and bottled in September 2022. Its producer, seven-generation family-run Maison Isautier, unusually makes both cane-juice- and molasses-based rums. This release falls into the latter camp, arriving at 57 percent ABV — not that you’d guess that from the nose or palate, though. Instead, aromas of dried stone fruits, vanilla, and used oak shine through, while the flavor profile leans mineral-rich, with accents of roasted coffee, dried licorice, and Dmerara syrup.

La Maison & Velier Flag Series 24 Year Old Guyana Rum 1998

La Maison & Velier’s “Flag Series” aims to showcase remarkable bottles from regions where extended aging periods are an option. Guyana rum aged for almost a quarter-century definitely fits that bill, and in this case, the lengthy maturation was only possible because the initially bourbon-barrel-aged spirit was transferred at 2 years old from its tropical home to Europe, where it was then transferred to Port casks. The profile of the final spirit is understandably dense and concentrated and we found that it benefitted from a few minutes to fully open up. At which point, a stunning array of tropical fruit (particularly pineapple husk), oaky sweetness (vanilla), and red berry compote emerge. The palate follows with cacao, salted caramel, and zesty citrus notes, as if to remind us that this fine sipping rum is still remarkably full of life and energy.

https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/best-rums-2024/

Vinepair: The 15 Best Mezcals for 2024

Best of, agave, NETA, Cinco Sentidos, Mezcal, VinepairNicolas Palazzi

Mezcal enthusiasts, of which there is a growing, occasionally dogmatic rank in the U.S., can reasonably argue that theirs is the ultimate spirit. Mezcal’s mid-aughts adoption in cocktail culture helped breathe new life into familiar cocktails via simple riffs, and gifted drinkers with more than a handful of beloved modern classics.

While those drinks rely on larger brands placed for that very use (like Del Maguey in the Naked & Famous), the category is overwhelmingly made up of small to tiny-scale producers. These artisans employ hands-on, traditional techniques, harnessing the diversity of seemingly endless species of agave to provide stunningly complex sipping spirits.

With much to geek out on, VinePair’s guide to the different types of mezcal, and the different varieties used in production, offers a comprehensive primer. But we’re here to explore brands, expressions, and the best bottles available right now on the U.S. market.

To compile this list, we tasted more than 60 samples submitted to VinePair (gratis) by producers, importers, distributors, and PR firms working on their behalf. Each was tasted non-blind, allowing us to factor price into our conclusion, and ultimately determine whether the bottle was worthy of inclusion on this list — the aim of which is not just to highlight the crème de la crème, but the best offerings across a wide range of price points.

NETA Tequilana Capón

NETA, Tequilana Capón – Wilfrido García Sánchez

Prior to the pandemic, the Tequilana agave (Blue Weber) grown by producer Wilfrido García Sánchez’s uncle Lalo made its way to Jalisco, where it was used to make unidentified tequilas. When those commercial relationships broke down because of shutdowns, Wilfrido and brother Ramón started crafting their uncle’s agave into fine, small-batch sipping spirits. One such example, this is a beautifully expressive release that begins citrusy, fruity, and mineral-rich, with an almost ghee-like quality lingering beneath. The palate is similarly bright and intense, with a finish that lasts an age.

Average price: $190
Rating: 96

Cinco Sentidos Cuishe

Cinco Sentidos, Cuishe – TÍO TELLO & EDUARDO “LALO” PEREZ CORTÉS

Technically sold as an uncertified agave spirit, this mezcal is produced from wild-harvested Cuishe that’s roasted with mesquite firewood and hand-chopped and mashed prior to fermentation. Its profile is lithe and clean, serving bountiful helpings of pineapple, jalapeño, and mineral notes. Smoke is an afterthought, and one that adds just a touch of savory character to the palate and finish, elevating the sipping experience to the next level.

Average price: $125
Rating: 94

https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/best-mezcals-2024/

Vinepair: Puntas — a High-ABV, Hyper-Traditional Style of Mezcal — Is Going Commercial

agave, Cinco Sentidos, Vinepair, VenenosaNicolas Palazzi

It was at the end of a tasting at Eli’s Mezcal Room, an underground mezcal tasting experience located in a local man’s New York apartment, when host “Eli” (not his real name) pulled out one final bottle he thought might interest me: an unlabeled plastic water bottle he had suitcased back from Mexico. It was extraordinarily aromatic and I could smell its vegetal, medicinal notes the second the Poland Spring’s lid was unscrewed. It likewise had a rich, intense, burning flavor — no surprise as it was nearly 70 percent ABV.

When alcohol comes off a still, the distiller cuts it into three parts, each descending in alcohol content, and generally referred to as the heads, the heart, and the tails. The most toxic elements, like methanol, are concentrated in the heads and tails, meaning many distillers across all spirits categories only bottle the hearts to be safe.

But this special mezcal Eli had served me was actually composed of all heads, which, besides methanol, also possess some incredibly aromatic, flavorful compounds like propanol, ethyl lactate, acetic acid, and furfural.

Though formerly the (strictly non-exported) handiwork of hyper-traditional mezcal, of late, puntas offerings are becoming increasingly commercialized and the category has even infiltrated the tequila world.

Puntas on the Palenque

Until recently, most Americans who would have tried puntas (the Spanish word for points, a synonym for heads) probably did so in a similar way to what I did. There aren’t really any commercial examples of it and, quite frankly, bottlings like the one I tasted might not even be legally allowed to be sold in this country for a variety of reasons.

“It’s definitely much more common to find it at the palenque (mezcal distillery),” says Noah Arenstein, who runs the mezcal program at The Cabinet in New York’s East Village. “Because either it’s being used to blend back into the final mezcal and adjust the ABV and flavor … or they’re saving it to drink for themselves.”

If The Cabinet has one of the world’s largest mezcal collections, the bar only has a few commercial examples of puntas. Indeed, Mezcal Reviews, an online database with over 1,800 mezcals listed, has only cataloged 11 puntas bottlings over the years.

La Venenosa, raicilla Puntas

La Venenosa Racilla Puntas is the first example Arenstein recalls seeing on shelves, circa 2016. (While also agave-based, raicilla is not the same as mezcal or tequila.) Cinco Sentidos shipped its first batch of Puntas de Espadín to the U.S. market in 2021. Two years earlier, Mal Bien had started offering Madrecuixe Puntas, which the producer called “the platonic ideal that we imagine spirits to be. Agave, boiled down to its very essence, the plant stripped of everything but its soul.”

“This was always something we would produce at the distillery, ever since we started producing in 2007.”

Cinco Sentidos espadín Puntas

Arenstein finds all the puntas releases have a unique, specific taste. “You get almost a hand sanitizer note,” he says. “You put it on your hand and it evaporates like, you know, a hand sanitizer without lotion would. It has a lightness and kind of effervescence to it.”

If that doesn’t sound too appealing, there’s the somewhat taboo aspect of drinking puntas to consider. Haven’t we long been told that heads are solvent-y in taste and dangerous to drink — not only high in ABV but high in methanol content. And can’t that make you go blind?!

“If I’m pouring puntas for someone I will sometimes preface it with that,” Arenstein says. While a well-cut puntas is certainly safe to drink in small portions, Arenstein admits he has definitely encountered mezcaleros (distillers) with a cloudy-eyed look that has made him wonder, if not concerned.

The Distiller’s Cut

Admittedly, any concerns Arenstein has are not enough to stop him from drinking delicious examples of the style as more and more expressions hit the market. And it’s not just mezcal (and raicilla) producers now sending puntas expressions stateside.

“I think distillation can get really complicated and geeky to the average person,” Estes says, “so we wanted to help people understand what makes this different and unique and special.”

The first release, produced from agave from the La Ladera estate, and distilled at La Alteña, which has been the Camarena family’s distillery since 1937, was cut at 64 percent ABV, though diluted with water to 101 proof. (While a traditional mezcal puntas would never be diluted, tequila can’t legally be bottled in America at higher than 110 proof or 55 percent ABV.)

It quickly became a cult hit, well reviewed on sites like Tequila Matchmaker where it currently scores a crowd-sourced average of 90 among the site’s community. It was also most mainstream tequila drinkers’ first introduction to the old mezcal term puntas. (In Jalisco, distillers use the more literal translation for heads: cabezas.)

“There’s bad borrowing that’s happening from the mezcal world and there’s some good borrowing. And in a way this feels like a good borrowing,” Arenstein says, referring to Ocho’s use of the term. (Estes is quick to note that Camarena’s great-grandfather was making what was known as “vino de mezcal” well before tequila was even a term or category.)

https://vinepair.com/articles/puntas-traditional-mezcal-on-the-rise/

Vinepair: We Asked 12 Bartenders: Which Cognac Offers the Best Bang For Your Buck?

Best of, Cognac, Cognac Frapin, VinepairNicolas Palazzi

There’s a longstanding visual that’s often associated with drinking Cognac. It involves an old, rich white guy in a smoking jacket sitting by a roaring fireplace, slowly and joylessly swirling the liquid in the broad-based snifter in his palm. Despite the category’s efforts to distance itself from this stuffy stereotype, it persists. This assumption does more than convey pretentiousness — it implies that Cognac is the forbidden fruit of the spirits world, unattainable unless you have deep pockets.

This is untrue: Cognac is for everyone, and for every budget. There are plenty of cost-effective Cognac options to enjoy with friends in your living room, either on its own or in a Sazerac or a Sidecar — you can even swap it in for the gin in a French 75 if you’re feeling saucy. Here, we asked a dozen bartenders to share their thoughts on the Cognacs that punch above their price tags — and punch a hole through its perceived stodginess.

The best bang-for-buck Cognacs, according to bartenders:

  • Hennessy VS

  • Frapin 1270

  • Ansac VS

  • Monnet Cognac VS

  • Pierre Ferrand 1840

  • Martell VSOP

  • Remy Martin VSOP

  • Remy Martin 1738 Accord Royal

  • Cognac Park “Carte Blanche”

“I’d never been a fan of Cognac until one of my trusted liquor reps insisted I try Cognac Frapin 1270. It was life-changing; I immediately fell in love with it. The delicate yet well-rounded flavors of vanilla, dried fruits, and nuts have such a smooth finish. It makes it almost impossible for me to not want to enjoy a nice cigar and conversation while sipping it slowly to savor every taste.” —Ravin Buzzell, general manager & bar director, Argyle Restaurant, Ponte Verda Beach, Fla.

https://vinepair.com/articles/wa-bartenders-bang-for-buck-cognac/

Vinepair: The 7 Best Mezcals to Gift This Holiday (2023)

NETA, Vinepair, Best of, MezcalNicolas Palazzi

Mezcal has been riding shotgun with tequila on its soaring stateside rise, and new expressions are debuting on the U.S. market left and right. But unlike tequila, which can only be produced in Jalisco using Blue Weber agave, mezcal can be distilled in nine different Mexican municipalities with roughly 40 different strains of the agave plant, making it a diverse and terroir-driven spirit. And although mezcal is rarely aged, it’s a spirit built on patience: It requires an involved, multi-day cooking process during which agave hearts are crushed and roasted in underground pits prior to fermentation. Even the agave itself can take up to 25 years to mature, making the mezcal it produces a treat that should be savored in good company.

To help you decide which one to purchase for the agave enthusiast in your life, we’ve put together this list of the best mezcals to gift this holiday season. Check out our list below for recommendations ranging from affordable, entry-level Espadín mezcals all the way to small-batch expressions from the nooks and crannies of the Oaxacan mountains.

Best Mezcal for Geeks

Ixcateco Papalome

If you already have a few Espadín mezcals on your back bar, take this chance to explore the rare Papalomé (meaning “butterfly” in Nahuatl) variety. It’s a wild-harvested agave and often compared to Tobalá, which is smaller and more compact than most varieties. This particular expression is made with traditional, rustic production methods, including fermentation in rawhide and distillation in clay pots that lend themselves to a funky, intriguing palate. Wafts of leather and earthy minerality are prominent on the nose, followed by a sweet-and-savory palate starring fire-roasted corn.

Best Limited-Edition Mezcal

NETA Tequilana Ramón and Wilfrido García Sánchez

We’re unabashed fans of NETA here at VinePair, and you’ll see why if you get your hands on this home-run release. This one is made from Tequilana (a.k.a. Blue Weber agave), the agave used in tequila production. Produced in Oaxaca by the talented mezcaleros and brothers Ramón and Wilfrido García Sánchez, this rare expression dishes up a plume of tropical fruit, minerality, celery, and peppers. On the palate, the fruit character shines even brighter with a hint of diesel-like funk on the finish. Only a little over 400 bottles of this spirit were produced, but it’s worth the hunt, and should definitely be savored over time. Drink this one on its own or with a side of birria tacos, and you’re in for a treat.

https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/best-mezcals-to-gift-2023/

Vinepair: Boutique Cognac Producers Are Betting on Transparency and Innovation to Shake Up the Status Quo

cognac, Cognac Frapin, Nicolas Palazzi, VinepairNicolas Palazzi

There’s no dichotomy in spirits like Cognac. With a history dating back hundreds of years, the famed French brandy is led by gigantic legacy brands owned by multinational conglomerates. These companies source most of their eau-de-vie from thousands of growers within the Cognac AOC, maturing and eventually blending it into a portfolio of products that start with entry-level V.S. and often extend to limited-edition Hors d’Age (“beyond age”) offerings that can run thousands of dollars a bottle.

Almost all discussion of the category is driven by these leading houses, which tightly control the information they share and work closely with Cognac’s trade group, the BNIC (Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac). Yet they’re curiously reticent about speaking to the press; of four major brands that were approached for this story, only one, Courvoisier, was willing to make someone available for an interview. Nicolas Palazzi, owner of PM Spirits, which imports boutique brand Frapin Cognac among others, calls the industry a “black box” of secrecy.

“There has been a lack of information and a lack of transparency from Cognac in general because it’s easier for business,” he says, explaining that baked-in ambiguity — part of the regulations governing Cognac production — allows blenders to incorporate a variety of liquids into their products without disclosing their ages, or if they use additives. “The less things are transparent, the more a brand can play around to meet the demand. There’s a reason why there’s no vintages on bottles—why no one tells you [the age].”

Though they dominate sales, the big houses aren’t the only players in Cognac. There are also estate distilleries, small-scale négoçiants (independent bottlers), and growers who hold back some of their distillate to sell under their own name. The volumes they produce are but a drop in the barrel, and many operate under the same veil of silence as the rest of the industry — no doubt because they rely on the success of the leaders to buoy the region’s fortunes as well as their own.

But the little guys are becoming an increasingly important factor in the equation of U.S. market sales. The spirits boom of the last two decades has yielded a crop of knowledgeable consumers who are curious, engaged, and on the lookout for unique products. They’re asking questions, demanding transparency, and searching for what’s authentic. Is the Cognac industry prepared to give them what they want?

The New Cognac Consumer

Cognac has been on a tear in the U.S. market over the past two decades, selling 9.28 million cases in 2022, compared to 4.15 million in 2012, and just 3.7 million in 2002, according to the BNIC. The bulk of that growth has come from a handful of brands: HennessyRémy Martin, Courvoisier, Martell, and, more recently, D’Ussé. Luxury positioning, sophisticated marketing, and celebrity affiliations have contributed to this runaway success, as has the sheer volume that these big companies are able to execute as demand ramps up.

Alongside this growth has been an expanding base of engaged, curious consumers. “Knowledge [about Cognac] is much more democratized, distributed — all over the internet,” says Max von Olfers, co-founder of cognac-expert.com, an e-commerce site dedicated to brandy. When he and his sister, Sophie, started the website in 2009, “the big trend was what we would call ‘influencer Cognac’”—brands with celebrity partnerships, like Ludacris with Conjure Cognac or Jay-Z with D’Ussé. “Today’s trends were very far away — not even visible,” Olfers says, mentioning vintages, high proof, organic production methods, and single barrels as some of the buzziest topics his customers are now seeking out and discussing. “This connoisseur-ization of the Cognac world is really what changed in recent years.”

The trend was already underway when the pandemic began in March 2020. For the first few months, spirits purchase patterns tended to favor more established brands as people sought familiarity. But eventually consumers adjusted to virtual tastings and online shopping, and were back to exploring new-to-them brands and products. “Consumers were way more open-minded to spending money on new items in 2020 and 2021, and we definitely benefited from that,” says Guillaume Lamy, managing director for the U.S. arm of Ferrand Cognac, a brand whose releases, which include unique cask finishes and other atypical characteristics, tend to showcase an outsize level of creativity for the category.

During the early days of the pandemic, when people were reluctant to shop in person, retailers like Baytowne Wine & Spirits, in the Rochester suburb of Webster, N.Y., turned to the phone and social media to walk customers through their options. General manager James Pellingra says that the “new normal” allowed him and his staff to highlight the boutique and artisanal offerings the store stocks. “Because we were able to communicate in such a detailed way … you see some of the smaller producers that are extremely historic in the European market start to take over a little bit in the American market,” Pellingra says, citing Fanny Fougerat and Jacky Navarre as two top sellers.

The process was accelerated when Hennessy, which is far and away the largest Cognac brand in the world, fell victim to supply chain trouble and began to temporarily disappear from shelves. Pellingra says that at first Hennessy customers switched to D’Ussé; then, when D’Ussé began experiencing out-of-stocks, they looked to the store’s artisanal offerings.

It was a lucky break for the little guys. “We were able to fill the shelves of some retailers who were used to having the big four or five Cognacs but were not able to get them,” says Christine Cooney, co-owner of Massachusetts-based Heavenly Spirits, which brings in several small Cognac brands including Monnet and Jean Fillioux. “Sometimes the hardest part of us selling smaller producers is to get on the shelf.”

And now that they’re there, Cooney says, her brands are selling well enough to maintain their spot. “They usually stay on the shelf because once people discover how good our small producers are, then the product is being reordered.”

The Push for Transparency

The reasons for this sustained success aren’t hard to spot. Boutique Cognac brands are high quality and, for marques above VSOP, they’re often priced competitively, if not well below mainstream offerings. Plus, they’re willing to share information that the big guys tend to keep under wraps. “I’ve found the littler producers are more open to talking about process,” says David Othenin-Girard, spirits buyer at California retailer K&L Wine Merchants, whose Cognac selection focuses on small-production brands such as Dudognon and Jean Grosperrin. The small brands that Cooney represents often participate in video tastings; education, she says, is a keystone of the company’s strategy.

Though most people drinking Cognac are still seeking the mainstream brands, Baytowne’s Pellingra says that the value proposition of smaller producers is a big draw for retailers. Plus, he adds, “They’re more transparent about where their fruit comes from, the process in which they’re distilling, how they’re aging, rather than some of the bigger brands where everything is kept secret.” That’s a big win with customers. “We want to know where our product comes from, how it’s made, and how it gets to us,” Pellingra says.

Much of that desire for transparency is being driven by whiskey drinkers who are exploring Cognac for the first time, and bringing their expectations and biases with them. Olfers, while including rum drinkers as well, calls them a “new wave,” adding: “This group is a small but very loud group. They are mixing up the Cognac world.” He sees their influence in the growing cadre of private bottlers offering unique barrels and bottlings.

“The story has gotten out: The big houses source from hundreds of growers and producers,” says writer Jason Wilson, who covers Cognac regularly in his newsletter “Everyday Drinking.” “But you’re starting to hear this story that the smaller producers keep a few of the very best barrels for themselves over the years, and now you have these smaller négoçiants that are going out and sourcing barrels from these old-timers,” he says. “That’s what the real spirits enthusiasts want.”

Pellingra’s experience at Baytowne bears this out; customers snap up whatever single-barrel brandies he can bring in — not just Cognac, but Armagnac and Calvados, too. “The American market has finally realized they can buy 20-plus-year-old brandy for a much more reasonable price than 20-plus-year-old whiskey,” Pellingra says. “And it’s much more readily available. … If you go in looking for a bottle of bourbon [at that age] — I mean, most places are going to laugh you out of the store at this point, unfortunately.”

Cooney has seen the same trend in Heavenly Spirits’ portfolio. “We have sold a few Cognac [single] casks at full-proof,” she says. “That kind of Cognac is a draw for whiskey drinkers” because of the high proof — unusual for Cognac, which is almost always bottled at or near 40 percent ABV. For these customers, Cooney says, “the higher, the better.”

Untapped Potential

Let’s be very clear: Small Cognac brands are never going to make up more than a tiny fraction of the massive, and massively successful, Cognac industry. The top five brands make up more than 96 percent of the market, according to Impact Databank, with Hennessy alone accounting for more than 55 percent. These volume leaders may not notice or care that a niche subset of spirits buyers are pursuing boutique offerings, since their success has historically been driven by a different kind of drinker — one who’s often brand-loyal above all else. Still, there are signs that some big brands are trying to reach more hardcore spirits enthusiasts. Courvoisier, for example, released a mizunara cask-aged offering in 2022 that was partly made by Japanese master whisky blender Shinji Fukuyo, clearly targeting whiskey connoisseurs.

But outside of the leading five houses, Cognac producers looking to make a mark in the U.S. would be wise to pay attention to what consumers say they want. “The potential of the category for producers and drinkers has not even begun to be scratched,” says Nima Ansari, spirits buyer at New York’s Astor Wine & Spirits. “A lot of the things that are exciting people in other categories already exist in spades in Cognac, too.”

If they’re going to make a go of it, boutique producers should be prepared to work hard. “The small guy has to do it hardcore,” Palazzi says, meaning: find the right importer and wholesaler partners, put in the time and effort to do consumer and trade tastings, and tell the story constantly. “That stuff is extremely hard. It’s a labor of love. There’s zero money in it.”

But, he says, “if they find a megaphone in the U.S. market, then they can express this and distance themselves from the big guys.” For small Cognac producers trading on their authenticity and transparency, that just might be the best way forward.

https://vinepair.com/articles/boutique-cognac-transparency-innovation/

Vinepair: The 30 Best Rum Brands (2023)

Rum, Vinepair, Best ofNicolas Palazzi

Despite its eternal status as the “next big thing” in drinks, rum sales still lag behind multiple other spirits in the U.S., including whiskeyvodkatequila, and Cognac. Still, there are signs that perceptions of rum are definitively shifting.

Of the almost $2.5 billion U.S. drinkers spent on rum in 2021 — the most recent data available — $229 million went toward “super premium” bottles, the most expensive price segment. Though still a fraction of total sales, this figure is more than 10 times greater than the amount spent on top- shelf rum 15 years ago, proving that folks aren’t only reaching for rum to mix Mojitos and Piña Coladas.

Impressive though that growth is, numbers and spreadsheets do little to capture the depth of the category. With rum brands operating in multiple continents, using two starkly different base ingredients — molasses and fresh cane juice — the main consideration when buying rum is not how much to spend but how you’re looking to enjoy the spirit. The category’s vast range of styles and ever-improving quality ensures that, whether it’s cocktail hour or time for a nightcap, there’s a bottle for every occasion and price point.

This list captures every aspect of that impressive landscape, from single-varietal agricole to transcontinentally aged and blended bottlings. Here are 30 of the best rums to buy right now.

Alambique Serrano Single Blend #1

Alambique Serrano Single Blend #1

Another stunning Oaxacan cane rum, this blend combines Cognac-cask-aged column still distillate with French-oak-aged pot still rum. The duo comes together in perfect harmony, serving up a captivating mix of fruit and umami notes on the nose. The palate then takes a pretty abrupt, but no-less enjoyable, turn, heading in a green, vegetal, earthy direction. This bottle provides further proof that Oaxaca is a serious player in the rum landscape.

https://vinepair.com/buy-this-booze/best-rum-brands/

What is Armagnac? Exploring Cognac’s Older Cousin

Armagnac, cognac, DOMAINE D’AURENSEN, Domaine d’Esperance, DOMAINE D’ESPÉRANCE, L'Encantada, PM SpiritsNicolas Palazzi
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How Armagnac is Made

“Essentially, Cognac is more like Tequila, and Armagnac is more like mezcal in the way it’s produced,” says Nicolas Palazzi, owner of importer and distributor, PM Spirits, “but not in flavor [although it can occasionally share similar notes with the agave spirit].” Armagnac is a bit more artisanal in nature, and every producer creates a product to their own proof and style making it a fan favorite for spirit nerds.

Armagnac is allowed to use 10 grape varieties in production, but typically only use four: Ugni blanc, Baco, Folle Blanche, and Colombard; whereas in Cognac they use around 99% Ugni blanc. More variety in the raw material allows for Armagnac to express a diversity in flavor that Cognac cannot. When you also consider the terroir — the soil, climate, and hand of the maker — Armagnac truly distinguishes itself in character.

“There is something really interesting in picking grapes and making a product that has a true personality and seeing that product at a stage where it hasn’t become a very popular spirit [like Cognac] that has been modified to try to appeal to the general public,” says Palazzi. “Armagnac is very terroir-driven, it feels like you can connect with the history of the land and its rich history.”

In terms of distillation, 95% of Armagnac production is distilled with an alembic column still, whereas Cognac has to be pot-distilled, Palazzi notes. “Some are using pot still as well,” he says, although it’s a rarity.

After being distilled, the liquid is typically aged in 400-liter French oak casks — typically local, Gascony oak — and is then classified as VS, VSOP, Napoleón, or XO (Hors d’âge), depending on how long it has been aged for, with XO being the oldest age statement meaning the distillate has seen a minimum of 10 years in the cask. It’s also common for Armagnac producers to release vintages, like wine, but this will be more of a rarity as the category continues to rise in popularity.

After aging, the Armagnac is either bottled at cask strength, or proofed down. “The reason why Cognac is typically 40% ABV is to stretch out the amount they’re able to produce because of the demand,” Palazzi notes. “In Armagnac, you’ll find more full-proof bottling because they aren’t under the pressure of hitting numbers so they can focus on creating the best product possible [regardless of proof].” This means that each bottle will have its own distinct character, which isn’t always the case with other brandies.

Some producers to note are: Domaine Boignères, Château de Pellehaut, Domaine Espérance, Domaine d’Aurensan, but there are many others creating exceptional brandies as well in the region.

READ/LISTEN HERE

Cobrafire Eau-de-Vie de Raisin

Cobrafire Eau-de-Vie de Raisin

An unaged blanche (white) Armagnac produced in the Bas Armagnac sub-appellation. It’s an undiluted, unadulterated expression of exactly what a French brandy should taste like. At 51.5% ABV, it’s also begging to make it into your next Martini.

PM Spirits VS Bas Armagnac Overproof

PM Spirits VS Bas Armagnac Overproof

Importer PM Spirits teamed up with renown production house, Domaine Espérance, to release their own label of VS overproof (51.7% ABV) Armagnac. For the price you’ll pay, it’s an absolute steal and must-try.

https://www.themanual.com/food-and-drink/what-is-armagnac/