First, a brief definition:
Pineau des Charentes (PdC) is a French aperitif made in the Charentes region, a 60+ mn drive north from Bordeaux (SW). It is made in the region that is also known (or mostly known) for making Cognac. PdC is a blend of unfermented or slightly fermented grape must and Cognac, aged in a barrel.
The grape juice is mixed with grape distillate that might not be old enough to be called Cognac just yet (though Cognac AOC can be used, see below). The addition of the spirit stops the fermentation process by killing the yeasts that are converting the sugar of the fruit into alcohol and therefore keeps the sweetness of the grape juice. This blend is then aged in oak barrels, which adds depth and complexity.
Pineau des Charentes comes in several varieties: white, red, and rosé.
Beginning of Alcoholic Fermentation
The foundation of any good Pineau begins with controlled fermentation. To balance acidity and alcohol while developing aromatic esters, temperatures between 20°C and 25°C are typically recommended during fermentation. Exceeding these temperatures can result in the formation of unwanted alcohols. Nutrition of the yeast is crucial thought one has to make sure alcohol fermentation is capped at a legal maximum of 2.5% alc/vol and the sugar is above the limit of 170 g/l in the must. Having the fermentation start helps with creating more complexity, stabilizes color and helps with lessening the perception of sweetness in the wine.
The use of specific kinds of yeast (like LSA) is often suggested to encourage a gradual fermentation process.
Pre-Fortification Operations
For white PdC, cold stabilizations (much like for dry white wines) help with aromatic complexity.
Red and rosé wines benefit from daily racking to avoid undesirable odors, and cold maceration to extract stable colors without producing unwanted esters. Maceration can done in different ways (cold with enzymes or hot in alcohol (for reds)) . Macerating time tends to be about 24hrs.
Controlled debourbage (lees/peeps/sediment removal aka clarification) ensures the removal of vegetal debris, conserves aromatic potential, and usually help with a successful fermentation.
Mutage (Fortification) and Post-Mutage Monitoring
Before mutage, residual sugars should be higher than 170 g/L.
Fortification is done by using an eau-de-vie de Cognac (eau-de-vie since the alcohol does not have to be 2yrs old hence does not have to qualify as Cognac AOC) with an abv of at least 60%. Some are pushing boundaries using VS, VSOP or even XO cognacs to fortify (as long as it is >60% abv).
Post-mutage requires careful homogenization for over two weeks by pumping or racking.
ABV post mutage should be between 16% and 22%.
Élevage (Aging)
A Pineau with a pH<3.5 will be better able to age as increased acidity helps to protect against bacteria. The newly distilled spirit should be stored in steel tanks.
Rose Pineau: minimum of 8 months, with 6 months in wooden casks.
Red Pineau: minimum of 12 months, with 8 months in wooden casks.
White Pineau: minimum of 18 months, with 12 months in wooden casks.
"Vieux" (old) or "Très Vieux" (very old) designations: respectively 7 years and 12 years in wooden casks as of 10/01/23
Notes:
The original text of law from 1945 is here.
My understanding is that the 2019 text of law (here) is the one that currently applies, including the modification made here which amongst other things pushed the Vieux to 7yr min and Tres Vieux to 12 years min is
Below some of the aspects of the texts that i found important/interesting:
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a) White fortified wines are made from musts from the following grape varieties:
main grape varieties: Colombard B, Gros Manseng B, Ugni Blanc B;
secondary grape varieties: Baroque B, Folle Blanche B, Mauzac B, Petit Manseng B, Sauvignon B, Sauvignon Gris G, Sémillon B.
b) Rosé fortified wines are made from musts from the following grape varieties:
Cabernet Franc N, Cabernet Sauvignon N, Cot N, Fer Servadou N, Merlot N, Tannat N.
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2° Proportion rules at the winery:
White fortified wines:
The proportion of the main grape varieties Colombard B, Ugni Blanc B, and Gros Manseng B must be no less than 70% of the grape variety composition. None of these three grape varieties can represent more than 50% of the grape variety composition.
Rosé fortified wines:
The proportion of the Tannat N grape variety must not exceed 50% of the grape variety composition.
The compliance of the grape variety composition is assessed, for the color considered, on all the plots of the winery producing juices and musts intended for the production of fortified wine of the appellation.
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The fortified wines with the controlled appellation of origin "Pineau des Charentes" or "Pineau charentais" must be prepared by muting the grape must with aged cognac in such a quantity that the acquired alcoholic strength of the product is at least 16% by volume and no more than 22% by volume.
During the storage period at the property, further muting with cognac is allowed. However, this additional contribution may not increase the acquired volumetric alcohol strength by more than 0.5%. This must be declared to the General Directorate of Customs and Indirect Rights and to the National Institute of Origin and Quality.
The musts to be used must present a minimum density that will be set each year by the office of the union of producers and propaganda of Pineau des Charentes, provided that this office cannot set a density lower than 1.075, corresponding to 170 grams of sugar per liter of must.
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The musts must be used during the harvest period without any filtration. They may have undergone the beginning of fermentation, but at the time of mutage, they must not have an unfermented sugar content lower than 170 grams per liter. The use of preserved, concentrated, or chaptalized must is prohibited.
The cognac used for mutage and surmutage must come from the property. It must have a minimum volumetric alcohol content of 60%, have been stored in oak barrels, and be mature, meaning it must come from the previous distillation campaign or an earlier one. The blending must be done thoroughly.
The fortified wines thus prepared must be stored in oak wood containers from the first racking and in any case before April 1st following their production. They cannot be approved before October 1st of the year following that of their production.
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